advice

building a Deck

Framing

»» Preparing the soil
If it hasn’t already been done, use a gardener’s hoe to remove the grass within the delineated perimeter. Cover the area with a geotextile sheet over which you will lay a 1 to 2 in. coat of gravel.
»» Installing an end joist
In order to be able to attach the deck to the house, you’ll need to install an end joist to the outside wall of the house. It will determine the height of the deck floor. Be sure it’s on the level and at the same height as the floor of the house.

Brick or concrete siding

Brick or concrete siding

We suggest you wear safety glasses through the steps that follow.
Cut the end joist (2 x 10 piece) to the required length. Drill bolt holes. Place the end joist against the wall exactly where it’s to be installed. Be sure it’s on the level.
Insert a marker through the bolt holes and mark the wall. Remove the end joist. Using a percussion drill, preferably, install anchor plugs in the wall, where marked, making sure they’re flush with the wall.
Replace the end joist against the wall and screw it in place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. To avoid water infiltration, apply a silicone joint around the end joist.

Clapboard siding

Clapboard siding

Cut the end joist (2 x 10 piece) to the required length. Drill bolt holes through the end joist. Place the end joist against the clapboard exactly where it’s to be installed. Trace the perimeter of the end joist.
Using a circular saw with its blade adjusted to 1/2 in. or less, cut through the clapboard. This will give you access to the house end joist to which you will attach the deck end joist.
Install a Z-shaped, flexible, water-repellent flashing, making sure the house end joist remains visible. Replace the deck end joist against the house making sure it’s on the level.
Insert a marker through the deck end joist bolt holes and mark the house end joist where required. Remove the deck end joist.

Clapboard siding

Using a drill, install anchor plugs in the wall making sure they’re flush with the wall.
Replace the end joist against the wall and screw it in place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. To avoid water infiltration, apply a silicone joint around the end joist.

Beams

Beams

Beams are composed of three 2 x 10, juxtaposed and nailed to one another. They rest on concrete piers to which they’re attached by means of brackets or, alternatively, they’re attached to the brackets of posts which, in turn, are attached to the brackets of the concrete piers on which they rest, depending on the height of the deck.
Note that it’s preferable that the beam that is farther from the house be lower than the one which is closer to the house. You should plan on a drop of 1/8 to 1/4 in. per foot in order to provide adequate water run-off.

Building the lower level

Building the lower level

»»   The floor joists
The floor joists are made of 2 x 10, installed perpendicular to the beams and spaced, as is the case illustrated here, 16 in. apart, centre to centre. While floor joists are single pieces, end joists are double.
Cut the floor joists to the required length. Lay the floor joists perpendicular to the beams, 16 in. apart, centre to centre, securing them in place with single or double brackets, as needed. Be sure they slope away from the house to allow for water run-off.

Laying the floor

Laying the floor

Use 1 1/4 x 6 planks to build the floor. Be sure they are cut long enough to span the beams.
Install a first plank flush with the end joist. Then lay down the remaining boards, leaving spaces of 1/8 in. between them, using nails that you’ll drive into the floor joists as spacers. Adjust the spaces gradually so as to cover the entire floor surface without having to cut a plank lengthwise.
Once all the planks are in place and correctly spaced, screw them to the floor joists, using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit. Remove the nails you used as spacers.
Finish the visible upper edge of the end joist by covering it with a 1 1/4 x 4 plank that will serve as a finishing moulding.

Building the step

Building the step

Build the lower level step in more or less the same fashion as the floor. Steps are 10 or 11 in. You can build the step frame and attach it to the beam and the end joist.
Cut 2 x 10 pieces to the required length for your end joists. Likewise, cut the joists (perpendicular) to the required length, according to your plan or to the required depth of the step.

Using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit, screw the joists in the end joists at 16 in. intervals, centre to centre, through the outside of the end joists. Level the gravel in the area where you plan to lay the foot of the step and cover it with square 18 in. or 24 in. concrete slabs so that when the step is installed it will rest completely on the slabs.
Using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit, attach the frame to the beam or the end joist, depending on whether the step is to be located at the front or the side of the deck, making sure it’s at the predetermined height. Cut 2 x 6 pieces to the required length to build the actual step. Using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit, drive two screws in each piece through each joist of the step.

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